Before you use that beautiful symbol...
Ask yourself one question.
Are you inspired by an aesthetic, or are you copying someone else's living cultural expression?
because those aren't always the same thing.
Many textile traditions, ancestral attire, and crafts are still active today. They are still woven, embroidered, printed, carved, dyed, worn, ritualized, and passed from one generation to the next as opposed to being relics in museums.
When it comes to using those traditions creatively, that distinction changes everything. Use these steps as a filter before you make the decision.
Step 1
Learn if a tradition is "living"
A living tradition is generally still actively practiced by a recognizable community.
Examples of these might include contemporary weaving traditions, ceremonial textiles, community-specific embroidery, indigenous pattern systems, and cultural dress still worn today
If the answer is yes to any of these then begin researching before designing.
Step 2
Find the person/people who can actually grant permission
Cultural trusts and artisan co-ops exist for a reason and this is one of them. Seek them out for permission along with tribal governing bodies, family workshops, community associations, individual originators of the work, and non profits who steward the tradition. It would be helpful but there is no universal licensing body for culture. There is just creative respect or bad press.
Step 3
Decide what you're actually licensing
This is where many brands get into trouble.
Are you licensing:
- a specific artwork?
- a specific textile?
- a specific sewing style?
- a repeat pattern?
- photographs?
- design files?
- manufacturing rights?
- educational content?
- trademarks?
- geographic indicators?
Do your due diligence because each carries different rights and responsibilities.
Step 4
Agree on terms
A good agreement should answer questions like:
Scope
- Which products?
- Which countries?
- Which sales channels?
Duration
- One collection?
- Seasonal?
- Multi-year?
Exclusivity
- Exclusive or non-exclusive?
Quality
- Can the community approve samples?
Termination
- What happens if either party wants to end the agreement?
Step 5
Decide how revenue is shared
There isn't a one size fits all model for revenue sharing.
Here are what some partnerships use:
- flat licensing fees
- royalties
- percentage of wholesale revenue
- percentage of retail revenue
- annual guarantees
- community development funds
- scholarships
- artisan capacity-building
Sometimes multiple models are combined.
The important question is whether the people stewarding the tradition participate in and benefit from the value being created.
Step 6
Give meaningful and visible credit
The public should not have to hunt for the connection between the community and your offering.
Your hang tags and design can highlight this by simply saying "Inspired by the living weaving traditions of ________."
or
"Created under license with ________."
Closing Thoughts
At CultureSchool, we believe the goal is to deepen creative expression. We also believe that the most meaningful collaborations first begin with curiosity, respect, and a willingness to learn before becoming moodboards. When brands take the time to understand the living traditions that inspire them, everyone benefits: the makers, the communities, the customers, and ultimately the brand itself.
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